Making Friends with the locals

Its not only the Lama´s around here that like me.

La Paz. Well what can I say about a huge sprawling city that is laid out in a valley surrounded by beautiful snow covered mountain peaks. A, lets say memorable visit was visiting the witches market with is dried frogs and baby animals etc, certainly delayed lunch.
Che Guevara is very popular throughout the region and particularly in Bolivia.
There seems to be a desperate need for someone to step into his shoes.
It is good to be back in Puno with the Lake laid out below. I am now riding to Cusco to visit the Inca ruins in Maccho Piccho an area I have for a long time been wanting to visit.

About 80 km on the Bolivian side of the border I came across the recently discovered archeological excavations of the ruins of the Tiawanaku temple (there are several ways of spelling it like Tiahuanacu).
The temple dates back to about 50years BC which is well before the Inca´s were even thought of. The tribe of the Tiawanaku were dominant in the Peru, Bolivia and Northern Chile area. The temples are built with the same geometric form, alignment with the planets and seasons, in the same way as many others around the world. This is something that always fascinates me as to why they all did that yet had no connection with each other.
The Spanish removed the stones from the walls of the temple and used them to build several churches in the area so a lot of it is busy being reconstructed.
I spent so much time there that it became too late to make it La Paz on time so the rest of the day was spent strolling around Tiawanaku seeing how simple life still is. The one little shop still sells things out of big bags by the pound (actually kilo ). The evening was spent with a family dinner and sleeping at Mrs Grassi´s little family “hotel.”

Ricky

Bolivia Border Crossing

From Puno I headed South to get to Bolivia and did my much loved border crossing process which went off well but I somehow landed up crossing over the pedestrian crossing and it was so packed that there was no way back other than to follow the crowd. The border officials grinned, processed me and muttered “&%$”& tourista.”

And what are you doing?

Meet Sara, Dominique and little Jade

Along the way I have been meeting and hearing about some amazing people. In San Pedro I briefly mentioned the medic prof and the Stuart, the Bristish media guy traveling around the world. Well along the road I recently met this Swiss couple who I rode along side and spoke to. They have been riding their tandem bicycle for five months so far, from Ushaia (the very south of the continent) and are on their way to Mexico. They have already covered 14000km and in the small cart at the back is their 3 year old daughter.
Now does that not prick a small twinge of emotion in you as to what are you doing?

While on the subject have a look at this web site. http://www.enterpriseafrica.org.uk/
They are a family with four children traveling through Africa from London to Cape Town in a land rover.

Ricky

Puno Peru

Puno was the next stop which is set on the banks of Lake Titicaca and is a more of a tourist spot than Juliaca. Like every city in South America it is centered around a central plaza which is always called Plaza Armas. Another aspect that takes getting used to in this part of the world is every town or city is almost totally one way streets. It makes things easier to handle the chaos/traffic.

Puno is known for the people who live on floating islands on the lake. They make the islands out of a mixture of the reed roots and pile massive amount of cut reeds on top to create a platform. They then build houses, also out of reed, on top of this floating island.
They developed this island system hundreds of years back when they were chased off the land by warring tribes. Judging by the general girth of the inhabitants they have adapted well to the lifestyle.
The boats which is their only means of transport between islands are also made of these reeds.

Juliaca Peru

Local transport in Julica and the surrounding area. This is a brand new three wheeler scooter with its proud owner about to dissapear in the mayhem of traffic.




29 April 2006
Puno
Peru
Day 42

Apologies for the delay in updates but I have been working hard. You probably think this is all play well it aint. I have been writing (and rewriting) articles for magazines and newspapers in the hope that it results in sales of ¨Freedom Flight¨, the microlight expedition book.

I rode from Arequipa to Juilica where it was refreshing (both literally and figuratively) to be out of the desert and back on top of the mountains again.
Juliaca is a small town with very little tourist appeal but an interesting place to have an insight into the real lifestyle up here. Most of the transport is either on three wheeled bicycles where the passengers sit on the front seat. These develop into a similar configuration but in a motorcycle form which transport anything from people to quantities of building materials and the traffic is an absolute mayhem of a blend of these contraptions.
The local market also has a wide variety of goods from fresh fruit to fresh Lama skins and all at good prices.

En-route from Arequipa to Juliaca

From Arequipa it was a steep climb back on to the top plateau into the amazing mountain areas.

Have I been spending too much time on my own or what?

25 April 2006
Arequipa
Peru
Day 38

Arequipa, as I found out today, consists primarily of Cathedrals, churches and a convent where nuns are sworn to abstinence from society and related indulgences. (Why?)
The towns name translate to English means ‘White City’ and the reason for this is because it is where the `Whites`(Spanish) established themselves enroute inland. Hum! Thought it was only South Africa that had these ‘Whitie’ issues but it seems not.

Tomorrow I head inland into the mountains and hopefully to Lake Titicaca on the border of Bolivia. I am really keen to ride through those areas and to discover the land of the Incas and some real history.

Adios
Cathedraled out Ricky.

Not a prefered ambulance.

An interesting ambulance outside one of the many churches in Arequipa.

After a while in the desert one gets to see strange things

Riding to nowhere inthe Atacama Desert

The Tacna Catholic Cathederal with it's neaby neighbour a Muslim Mosque. A rare sight in this very Catholic enviroment.

24 April 2006
Arequipa
Peru
Day 37

Appologise for no photos but there seems to be a prolem with this blogger system. It's definitely not an operator problem. (Or at least I hope not).

Did my little bit around Tacna checking out the cathederal and more interestingly I came across a mosque. It looked very in place in the desert surroundings but unusual in this very Catholic enviroment.

Arequipa is a pleasant break from the vastness of the Atacama desert. Don't get me wrong the desert has its own beauty and magnificence. To ride for hours increasingly paniciking about the next fuel staion and then to ride over a 4000ft sand dune like mountain and suddenly look down on a valley of lush greenery in the river bed below, is breathtaking.

It is nice to have the grinding paste out of the mouth. On this note I must send a message of gratitude to the weather fairy. It has been really good and in an area where windless days are rare. Thanks

Hopefully tomorrow I can send ome photos and save you from having to read my mumblings.

Ciao
Ricky

Hot water geysers or back of the moon?

22 April 2006
Tacna
6) Peru
Day 35
Distance 5650 km

Having trouble updating the web page.



I am at Tacna in Peru. A great little town which is well accustomed to tourists and has good fascilities.

Passing my favourite officials at the border went so easily I almost wanted to go back and do it again.

Its all desert through here and probably will be up to Arequipa. Amazing to look across it and far in the distance to see the high Andes mountain peaks iced with snow. Its almost surreal.

Eating at local kiosks to aleviate the money seperation anxiety at San Pedro Atacama.
Top of Paso de Jamo
Chile

21 April 2006
Iquique
5) Chile
Day 34
Distance 5200km

Ouch! Chile is giving me money seperation anxiety attacks. It sure is not cheap on this side of the border.
San Pedro Atacama was a good bit of Fun. It is primarily a tourist village and is a very basic desert outpost with a good community feel to it.
The major attraction is the hot water geysers about 60km North into the mountains. It is beautiful and impressive to see the steam blasting out of the ground. We left San Pedro at 4am to see them at sunrise which was amazing. Later in the day I took a ride out to the Vale de la Luna ( Valley of the moon). It is equally amazing with a variety of rugged mountains and dunes in colours ranging from white, reds to dark greys. It is similar to Sossuesvlei in Namibia.
The evening was spent over a few beers talking to a medical proffessor who has travelled and still works all over the world and an Englishman who is also enjoying doing the midlife crisis thing. He sold everything and left London in Dec 2004. He has travelled through Most of Africa and now is doing the Americas. We had many stories to exchange and equally agreed that most countries around the world are great places.

600km later I am now at Iquique on the Pacific coast in Northern Chile. I was really excited to see the Pacific ocean. It was a kind of highlight to have ridden this little pony across South America, from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Adios
Ricky
P.S. Surfies.
This is the surf spot of Chile and the waves look good. Today they are pumping a good 8ft.

19th April 2006
San Pedro De Atacama
5) Chile
Day 32
Distance 4600km

Yes! Yes! Yes. In Chile.
The only problems with the border crossing were the ones I fabricated.

The Paso Jama from Argentina continued to become more and more impressive. I will let the photos speak for themselves.

As for the little pony, today it earn all my admiration. According to the GPS the highest altitude it took me to was 15772 feet and it did it with power to spare.

Besides being in front of the computer I am now in San Pedro De Atacama in Chile and it is……. Well let me go and find out and I will let you know.
Oh! There is a volcano nearby which erupted yesterday and is billowing smoke. Hopefully tonight we don’t get any unplanned fireworks.

Ciao from Chile
Cheerful Ricky

18 April 2006
Jujuy
Argentina
Day 30
Distance 4300km

I left Salta today having had an effect on some paper salesman’s budget this month.
With the help of Manuel, who knows all the important people in town, I managed to pay a minimal export duty on the motorbike which in theory leaves me free to cross the border.
I have ridden to Jujuy and tomorrow morning will leave to the same Jama border post and hopefully St Pedro de Atacama in Chile.
Today along the way the road was blocked by locals at various points but they let me trough on the motor bike. I asked the police what the situation was but unfortunately couldn’t understand the reason they tried to explain. Bit of a communication gap.
Contrary to the warnings people have given me about the police here, my experience with them has been very pleasant. Hopefully this will continue into Chile.

AdiosRicky

The top of the Andes

It is easy to get lost on the Salinas Grande in more ways than one.

Riding through semi-desert like area toward the perfectly white Salina Grande with the back drop of snow capped peaks.

The the massive mountains are both figuratively and literally breathtaking

Top: The Tango dancer should take a few tips from the lamas

Bottom: Church at Susques dating back to 1598

14 April 2006
Salta
Argentina
Day 28
Distance 4200km

The customs reception at Jama was, well customary. I got a warm rejection. Fortunately a gentle, Manuel, who saw the proceedings is a lawyer in Salta and suggested I go back there and he will assist me on Monday, finalizing this issue with customs in Salta.
Last night was spent in the border post building drinking wine and having fun with the officials which did not seem to help.
This morning I rode through that amazing scenery and am now in Salta to make arrangements on Monday.

On Top of the Andes

Top: Made it to the top of the Andes
Bottom: Local Mountain kids


13 April 2006
Jama (Very High in Andes Mountains)
Argentina
Day 27
Distance 3600km


Occassionally Alan and I would call each other on the radio and say “What have we done to deserve this?” Well today was one of those days I asked myself that question a few times.
At one point it took me 2 hours to ride 50km. I rode up the pass from Purcamarma which climbs from 7000 feet to 13500 feet in a 45 km distance and around each bend I had to stop to take yet another absolute perfect photo. And so two hours disappeared watching jaw dropping scenery pass by.
High in the mountains is a village called Suesques which dates back to the early Conquestadors with the original church still standing since 1598. It was a short refuel stop and met some interesting Argentinians heading to Chile for the Easter Weekend.
The terrain was semi-desert with snow capped mountain peaks as a backdrop and stretches across to a high plateau which becomes the brilliantly white massive “Salina Grande” (salt pan).
It’s difficult to describe the thrill and excitement I felt riding through the incredible ever changing scenery in the area. I felt like I must be amongst the luckiest people around and questioned “Why don’t more people do this?”
I rode onto the pan to visit the local inhabitants making salt bricks, ornaments and pure salt. It was tempting to continuing riding out of sight across the vast pan and camp the night but have been warned about drastic temperature change at night and rather continued on to Jama, the border post with Chile.


Adios
Ricky

Getting to the top

The little pony made it to the top. I was amazed at it's performance. At 3500m I took the air filter out and it ran great all the way up to 4170m
Breathing starts to become a concious effort at these altitudes and any small task feels like a marathon.

In The Andes

11 April 2006
Jujuy
Argentina
Distance +-3125 km
Day 24

Salta was a blend of work and tourist fun. Arriving on a Saturday evening left me with Sunday to do some tourist things, finding out where the Bolivian consulate was, catching up on admin and writing my weekly newspaper article.
Writing skills must have been lacking when they issued me out of the pearly gates because it takes me hours to write something.

Monday morning had me early at the Bolivian consulate who issued me with a visa as I waited which was a pleasant surprise. From there it was of to check the bike out and that pretty took up most of the day. Part of checking the bike out was to go for a longish ride which landed up being my first little incident. Drivers seem to pass unnecessarily close when coming from behind and one of them did not make it. They hit my arm off the handle bar with their side mirror.
I blew an absolute fuse and was ready to kill. It was a case of an overdose of mixed emotions when the very apologetic driver was a beautiful woman. What could I do?

This morning I left Salta and the bike was none the better. I rode about 300km and had to turn back to a town Jujuy to have it seen to. Jujuy is only 125 km from Salta and going back is something that really bugs me. The bike is now with a different set of mechanics who are going through the same process all over again inspite of me trying to explain that it is not those problems.
We probably all do the same and think because someone can´t communicate we assume they don´t know what they are talking about. I certainly have on occasions been guilty of this myself.

Today I turned around at a small villiage in the mountains called Purmamarca. It is a beautiful little place about 7500 feet high in the mountains. They had all their colourful woven cloths and handcrafts on display in the village center. It looked exactly like the travel brochures with the high, equally colourful mountains as a back drop.

Hopefully I can leave here tomorrow as Easter weekend is drawing close and I will be stuck in one place and I now desperately want to get going North.

Adios
Ricky

At the foot hills of the Andes

8 April 2006
Day 21
Salta
Argentina
Distance 2950 km

I am now in Salta which is at the foot hills of the Andes about 200km East of the Chile border.
Last night was spent at a small town called Saen Panez (spelt something like that).
Today started very early in what looked like good weather. 60km out I was riding into a huge thunder storm and debated whether or not to get the rain gear out and continue. I opted for the soft option and turned back to a partially built petrol station I had passed and surprisingly someone was there. He had a big smile on his face and let me put the motor bike inside the building.
In our limited communication he said he expected to see me coming back because I was heading on the wrong road. A lot of people miss the turn to Salta and make the same mistake. It would have beena a harsh mistake to discover after riding into the storm. The heavens opened up for an hour after which I rode off in light rain.

The road in places was bad and full of pot holes which reminded me of a friends warning. “ If you see two long ears on the road don’ t think it´s a rabbit. It´s donkeys ears and the donkey´s inside a pot hole.”

I´ll be here for a few days sorting out insurance and an engine miss that is getting worse. I am guessing it is the same problem we had with the microlight engine. Not comfortable feeling when we were flying. It is probably a clogged fuel filter which I added in the fuel line to protect the engine.

Adios
Ricky
The tired homesick puppy

Crossing Argentina

7 April 2006
Saenz Peria
Argentina
Distance 2300 km

The two night stop over in Formosa was much needed for both myself and the little pony. It was serviced there by the local Honda dealer and is now going se well it can almost cantor.
The dealer, Guillermo looked after me too well and also organised a radio and newspaper interview so his truly and Guillermo were in the local newspaper this morning. I made sure to take the newspaper with incase it helped to explain things at a police stop. This is a useful tactic Alan and I learnt on the microlight trip which was to show the bureaucrats giving us a hard time, several newspaper clippings about our trip and they quickly assumed we were important and not to be given a hard time.
It turned out to not be necessary. I was stopped twice and they were very polite. One policeman even spoke English so we had a little chat. These guys should give the Paraguayan police a few tips.
I am now riding West across the country towards the town Salta from where I plan to leave to Chile. That’s if I can get across the border with the bike. The short 300km ride today was because I would not be able to make it all the way to Salta in one day and there is nothing much between here and Salta. So tomorrow is a 700km sore butt day.

Adios
Ricky

For the Techno junkies.
The motor bike uses on average 4.5 litres per 100km and has a range of about 200km at 90 km/hr. The reserve fuel is 3 litres and I don’t want to find out how far that will go. I remain below a 100 km/hr to look after the little 250cc motor. It has a long road ahead.

Brazil and Paraguay done

5 April 2006

Day 18

3) Brazil and 4) Paraguay

Distance 2000km

Joined the tourists at Iguazu Falls in the Northern tip of Argentina bordering with Brazil and Paraguay. The falls are massive and impressive. It makes Victoria falls seem like a baby.

Later that day I rode across the border into Brazil. How it worked out was by me employing a "proffessional". There is so much tourist and locals crossing the border that it was relatively easy for someone who knew someone to ride my bike across with me as the passanger.

Spent the rest of the day and evening touring the Brazilian town Foz De Iguazu and left early this morning into Paraguay. The weather was good and I sat back leaning against my backpack and thought "What a great day to be riding a bike across Paraguay" while watching an old man riding his ox drawn old wooden cart. Well that chilled out sentiment did not last long. The notorius Paraguayian police stopped me and then again and so it went right across Paraguay. The costs for Paraguay look like this. Fuel $10, Police $70. My negotiation skills had better improve or the budget is not going to make it.

When I got onto the Argentinian side of the border the first police check stopped me. I got off the bike, pass him my passport and relate documents and sat down on the pavement with my head in my hands. He smiled in an understanding way and offered me a cigarette. I smiled back and politely rejected his offer and said I would like to wait a while. He was very pleasant and gave me no hassles.

I am now in Formosa where Honda has arranged an agent to service the bike tomorrow. So I will stay put and prepare for the long ride across to Chile.

Adios Ricky

3 April 2006
Puerto Iguazu
Argentina
Distance 1450 km


The little pony has been working hard lately
Colon was a great stopover. I had dinner at a sidewalk pizzaria and watched people marching past, demonstrating to stop the planned paper mill on the Uruguayan side of the river. Whole families,kids and all, were out there clapping and chanting something. I wish them success.
After Colon I set a big day to try and make it to Posadas on the border of Paraguay. I made it there after 9 and a half grueling hours at 90 km per hour. Except for feeling like I had passed a pineapple, it was not really too bad. Maybe I am still used to it from the microlight trip, putting my nose to the grind stone to get somewhere.
The road was good and I got stopped once by the notorious police I have been warned about. They were so polite, pleasant and smiled at my attempt at Spanish, offered me a brochure on the area and sent me on my way. I hope they are all like that.
The road and countryside was very flat and primarily lush green cattle fields. It was quite obvious why this area is well known for its meat.
After 745 km to Posadas, I landed up in the typically difficult scenario every biker dreads. Being tired, lost and trying to find accommodation in a new town at night.
This morning I rode 315km to Puerto Iguazu which on the Argentinean side of the massive Iguazu waterfalls. Temperatures have increased dramatically. Stopping with the motorbike jacket on is like walking into a sauna.
The countryside has become a lot more hilly and tropical jungle. It is very much like the scenery between Knysna and Natures Valley in South Africa.
Tomorrow I will go and visit the falls and later in the day attempt once more to cross the border into Brazil. This time with a bit more determination.

For those who can understand Spanish check this out http://buscador.lanacion.com.ar/Nota.asp?nota_id=793630&high=sudafricano

Adios
Ricky

Info for motor cyclists passing this way. I am staying at a little hotel with great underground lock up fascilities. Parana Hotel, Ave Brasil,Nro 24.

In the Air again

Tank full, off I went on to the wrong side of the road.
Later I noticed an aeroplane overhead towing a glider. Hum! Interesting! And chose to follow it to the runway of the Aero Club of Concepcion Del Uruguay. Being the shy type I introduced myself and was soon bundled into the tug plane trying to prove that I could infact fly a plane. It was a 1970’s Cessna 182 tail dragger which I had no clue of how to fly and even less on how to land a tail dragger. After the pilot, Mariano, let me totally embarrass myself and we all had a good laugh I bid everyone farewell and continued riding North to a small town Colon to once again attempt crossing into Uruguay.
The border was decorated with placards and security presence because of the demonstrations to do with the planned paper factory on the river. The customs officials had the similar cold shoulder. With time they also suggested similar alternatives to the ferry officials. So let’s hope it works when I will desperately need it between the Argentinean/ Chile border.

Adios
Ricky

On the Road

1 April 2006
Colon
Argentina
Day 14
Distance +- 400km

On the road.



You know that feeling when you wake up in the morning and a big dark cloud hangs over your head. Well this morning started like that and that cloud stretched all the way to the port where the ferry leaves to Uruguay.
I was once again in time for the last minute panic before departure in the hope of being forgotten, overlooked or shoved in amongst the loading process but it was not to be. I was not forgotten and was again rejected. My tenacity this time being met with a smile from the customs lady followed by a clue as to how I might overcome the technical problem burdening my plans. With this positive information I left with a little smile and a lot of hope.
As much as I really enjoy Buenos Aires and its distractions, I had to at least try and make some progress so I headed North on highway 9, 12 and then 14 with the focus of trying to, in two or three days, get to Iguazu Falls on the border between Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina.
I putted along at 90km/hr happy with the fact that in some way I was making progress. Occasionally getting lost, taking a turn off I was convinced was correct but the GPS arguing differently. I hate those gadgets. They always right.
After 200km in the middle of the highway the engine cut out and I found out the range of a tank of fuel. Fortunately when I turned the little tap on to reserve, all was well again and I got to a fuel station.

Continued on next update.

Montevideo

31 March 2006
Day 13
Montevideo
2) Uruguay
Distance stilllll 1.2km

The bus route ended at a large shopping centre in a suburb of Montevideo which showed clues of a well developed modern city. From there I went by taxi (taxi’s here are very cheap) to a backpacker type hotel extracted from the lonely planet book I am using as a guide. Not quite Djibouti standards (one would need to read the pending Freedom Flight book to appreciate Djibouti) but it certainly fulfilled all the criteria one would expect from such an establishment.
Montevideo city centre is not the best example of its splendor. Like so many other cities, it is dealing with the migration towards the suburbs and boy are the suburbs beautiful. I met up for a beer with a motor biker, Santiago, whom I contacted via http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ and he showed me around the beach front area of Montevideo. It could easily be mistaken as being the French Riviera with its miles of beach lined very upmarket apartments. Really impressive areas.
A sight in the city centre that to me spoke a million words and in a way reminded me of home. Imagine, a young poor man standing on his old wooden cart filled with bags of arbitrary garbage like goods, holding the reins of his ill looking horse which is pulling them down the road while behind is an impatient BMW M5 motor vehicle desperately trying to overtake.
We live in a world of disparity.
There are many ornate buildings closed up or busy being renovated and amongst them are sections of very chic looking restaurants and night clubs. Something that has been noticeable both here and in Buenos Aires is the very late hours that people come out for the evening. A restaurant will be completely empty at 9 pm and by 10pm it will be packed for the first serving of the evening and it goes on until the early hours of the morning. How everybody works the next day is amazing.

I am now on the ferry back to Buenos Aires to hopefully sort out riding the motor bike across the border. Hold thumbs.

Adios
Ricky